Diagonal seamed Barrett Bralette

pattern hack

The inspiration for this bralette is based on a design by Urban Bird Clothing. One of my favorite bespoke lingerie company which is based in UK. I love Molly's strappy design in combination with the colorful scuba fabrics. Just luxurious.

The bralette is a hack based on Madalynne's Barrett Bralette, which is a free pattern. I won't talk too much about this pattern, because it is a very popular pattern in the bra making community. I guess most of us start with this pattern in the bra making journey. At least I am.

Before we start, you need the Barrett bralette pattern, tracing paper (or baking paper), french ruler, pencil, and printing papers. 

 First, trace all the pattern pieces on baking paper.

Second, remove all the seam allowance (6mm) and mark the bust point (BP). I also raise the centre front height, this is optional.

Once you've done that. Draw a line from the BP to the top and the bottom. Now, find the highest point between this line to the curve line. In this pattern, it actually at the midpoint. Measure the distance between the lines, and those numbers are the volumes we are going to use later on. (In my case, they are 6mm upper inner cup, 4mm lower inner cup, 4mm upper outer cup, and 6mm lower outer cup for your reference.)

Now, get into the design. You can find a point around the middle of the arm curve, let's called it A. Draw a line from A to BP.

 

Similarly, mark B in the middle of the bottom cup line. Draw a line from B to BP.

 

Fold all the bottom curves and lined cups up at the BP. Now, you can trace the new bottom cup by using the baking paper, or like me, you can go photocopy the new piece.

 

Draw a straight line from B to the back band. Now it's time to add back all those volumes that we took off. Find the middle point of the two new design lines. Here, I added 6mm on the left, and 4 mm on the top. After that, draw a curve line, that passes all the points. Now, you have your new bottom cup.

Do the same to the top cup, don't worry if the top doesn't line up. Just make sure the BP does.

Add back the volume, the new design lines here are quite flat, so I added 5mm to both sides.

Now, you have two new cups. The final step is to walk the seams from BP. Make sure they are the same length.

Add back the seam allowance, we are now ready to sew a paper towel test cup. It is an easy, quick and cheap way to test the shape and size.

It's looking good. Then you can go ahead and sew a real muslin.

I hope this post is helpful. I would love to see all your diagonal Barrett bralette.

@gravitybygrandy and #DiagnoalBarrettBralette